Say the word eccentric and repeat it three times. Bamboozled. Well, that’s exactly what Prestonfield House does to you. Perhaps the most eclectic of all of Edinburgh’s grand dames, this delightfully whacky weekend retreat is really in a world of its own. It’s kind of like Narnia, minus the creepy vengeful witch. Set just off the south side of Arthur’s Seat, the country house makes a statement with its imposing stone portico, manicured gardens, and swanky golf course. It’s literary, and in the finest way possible.
There’s something bizarrely puritan about the place, too. Medieval Cistercian monks founded the land the hotel sits on back in 1150. Since then, it’s passed through the hands of James IV’s former printer and the family of Sir Alexander Dick, who would one day host the likes of philosopher David Hume and Benjamin Franklin. Illustrious? Naturally, and so much so that state dignitaries from Winston Churchill to Margaret Thatcher, and rumour has it, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, all turned up later, too.
Nowadays, the hotel is owned by James Thomson, the man behind the sister hotel, The Witchery, known for its equally playful and theatrical flair. A riot of rococo, style wise, it’s a total maximalism overload. There’s also a sense of naughtiness throughout: leopard print carpet, suggestive portraiture, and eccentric nods to English humour strut about endless cabinets of curiosities. Chandeliers dazzle, private dining rooms flecked with frescoes sparkle, and the immense details of the quirky rooms are a masterclass in the art of extravagant excess.
My room for the night was the Owner’s Suite, accessed only by a private princess-esque turret staircase hidden away at the front of the house. Naturally, there’s an air of theatrical fairy tale charm to the space. Think ostrich plumes, a massive four-poster bed topped with a crown and laced in velvet, and a library-style bathroom with a room claw-foot tub for two. Windows spy garden views across the estate (including the Highland cows), and all the ornately carved wooden furniture, chess sets, bold wallpaper, and gorgeous antique nick-nacks also add an extra dose of regal pomp. All that was missing was a Stuart King dousing me in wine. Wherever you end up plonking your head here, lashings of silk, oversized bedframes, oil paintings, and ormolu antiques are guaranteed.
If you are a foodie, a reservation at Rhubarb, the hotel’s destination restaurant, is the hot ticket to score before you check-in. The menu features all sorts, from quintessential seasonal Scottish classics to chic interpretations of British set menus (expect a lot of fresh fish, pies, and all manner of things rich). Angus beef, roe deer, melt-in-your-mouth pork and wild mallard are cooked with sensation flair and respect, lunch through to dinner. Breakfast? Epic. The menu is vast, but if there’s one must try, go for the Scottish breakfast, with tattie scone, haggis, and traditional fruit pudding (delicious) included.
In terms of R&R, there’s lots to do. The ruins of nearby Craigmillar Castle are blissfully romantic, and you are on the doorstep of Arthur’s Seat, which, if it’s a glorious day outside, makes for a fantastic cardio burning session up the face of the mountain. There’s also plenty of space for guests to spread out under the fine old trees with a picnic or glass of wine, and of course, there’s a gigantic golf course to play with.
To round it all up, Prestonfield is special. It’s mad, a little but unhinged and so wonderfully eccentric you’ll come out laced in silk and peacock feathers. It’s totally fabulous, in every sense of the word.
Top Takeaways
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: Total maximalism. Regal and pomp best sums up this demi palace.
Food + Drink: Classic Scottish, with an emphasis on seasonal British ingredients with a hint of fine dining in between.
Amenities: Bar, restaurant, afternoon tea, golf course
Our Favourite Thing About the Hotel: It’s wild, and in the most fantastically eccentric kind of way.
What’s Nearby? The city of Edinburgh. Need we say more?
Any personal neighbourhood recs? Hike Arthur’s Seat. It’s literally on your doorstep, and if it’s a nice day, a great way to spend an afternoon.
Rooms: 23
Pricing: From about 550 USD per night, including breakfast.
Closest Airport: Edinburgh International
