Set the scene.
Like cities worldwide, the “Big Apple” is home to neighborhoods with distinct reputations, each attracting its own blend of residents and visitors. In the NoMad district, just north of Madison Square (hence the name “NoMad”), you’ll find a well-heeled, more reserved crowd frequenting this upscale enclave.
This personality extends to NoMad’s nightlife, which leans toward a refined take on a New York night out. Here, bars and restaurants tend to close before the city’s infamous “after hours,” following a quiet luxury ethos.
At the historic Evelyn Hotel, BRASS—a chic French-inspired brasserie—has quickly made a name for itself as a place to see and be seen. Its sibling, the Roaring 20s-inspired Tusk Bar, entices guests with a dramatic red curtain entrance, inviting them for a pre- or post-dinner drink.
Past the sultry lounge, BRASS’s spacious yet intimate dining room offers ambient lighting and a central cocktail bar, encouraging lingering conversations. Designed by Islyn Studios, the space combines Art Deco and Beaux-Arts touches that pay homage to NYC’s social hubs of yesteryear. With its 70-seat dining room, intricate abstract frescos by California artist Jessalyn Brooks, and whimsical plate illustrations, BRASS exudes a cool, modernist charm.
Let’s start with the drinks, shall we?
Bar Director Tristan Brunel presents a concise list of “surprise and delight” cocktails that cater to fans of classic cocktails, wine, beer, and mocktails alike. While mixing liquors is typically discouraged, the selection across each category might tempt you to sample a bit of everything.
Their “Classic Two Sippers” list—a nod to the notion that “if you’re going to have one, you might as well have two”—includes timeless favorites like the Manhattan, dirty martini, Negroni, Sazerac, and champagne cocktail, making it easy to indulge in the concept that two truly is better than one.
Beyond these traditional drinks, the cocktail menu shines with creative concoctions such as the Deep Purple (Hendricks gin, basil eau de vie, bergamot, citrus, cassis, and black pepper) and the Funny Valentine (Macallan sherry oak 12yr, Bacardi 8, Cardamaro, honey, fig leaf, hazelnut, and cardamom). For a seasonal treat, the Autumn Leaves blends Neversink gin with spiced pear, apricot, apple aperitif, and apple blossom bitters, an inviting choice for fall.
What can we expect from the food?
Helmed by Chef partners Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra, BRASS’s menu puts a playful spin on classic French cuisine with a focus on seafood. With so many tempting options, deciding what to order can be challenging. The good news? You can sample a variety, as the portions are small but satisfying.
Begin with a selection from the hors d’oeuvres and raw bar. The Couronne de Gougères—gruyère-filled beignets topped with poppy seeds and caraway—and a half-dozen oysters served with lemon and mignonette are perfect starters.
For the next course, try the Celery & Endive Salad with a tangy yuzu dressing, hazelnuts, and aged goat gouda, or the Ricotta Gnudi pasta, featuring delicate pasta pillows with black truffle and chives.
For mains, the Wagyu Strip Steak pairs beautifully with a side of Pommes Frites for an elevated steak frites experience. Or, try the indulgent Golden Amish Chicken Roulade—a deboned chicken stuffed with herb mousseline, roasted with garlic and thyme, and served with a creamy celeriac-potato purée.
To end on a sweet note, don’t skip the dessert menu, which promises a memorable finale to the meal with their signature Vanilla Slice.
Final thoughts?
The essence of dining out in Manhattan is captured by a great drink, a decadent dinner, and live music in a vibrant setting. With jazz performances on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, BRASS is the perfect spot to embrace that quintessential New York state of mind.
Top Takeaways
Location: NoMad, New York City
Address: 7 E 27th Street, New York, NY 10016
Cuisine: French
The vibe: A quintessential, moody New York neighborhood restaurant and cocktail lounge where French-inspired cuisine and style come together seamlessly.
Pricing: $$$
Takes reservations? Yes – Resy
Our favorite dish on the menu: We could’ve easily devoured three whole plates of the Ricotta Gnudi without a shred of shame, but with so many other tempting dishes to try, we showed some restraint.
The attire: Smart casual
Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner: Opened Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight.
