Off grid? In Italy? Never! If, like me, you visit the boot of Europe often, you might have noticed that it is overrun by Americans, Brits, and virtually everyone else on earth come summer time. While the allure of that La Dolce Vita lifestyle is contagious, the truth is, things are getting a little too busy in hotspots from Rome to Venice and the Amalfi Coast. The solution is simple, go elsewhere and off grid. Cue Castello di Vicarello, a family run pad made for those who just want to unplug and chill from the horrors of everyday life.
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Hidden away, and I mean this sincerely beyond the realms of journalistic hyperbole, down a dirt track that leads to a hilltop masked by cypress trees, Castello di Vicarello at first looks like a joyful mirage in the middle of nowhere. Rising perfectly chiselled, the 12th century stone castle is surrounded by the lush expanse of the Ombrone Valley. Think hills of olive trees, thick forests, beauteous orchards and old farming houses scattered throughout every corner under the Tuscan sun. At first glance, it might seem unusually remote for this part of the world but don’t be fooled, the small village of Cinigiano is a speedy 10-minute drive away. Naturally, it’s all very glossy magazine – Lara Stone famously did a shoot for Vogue here, and Mario Testino joins the rest of the media glitterati (think hotshot Americans, chic Dontatellas and the unassuming London set) for their summer escapes – yet there’s not a whiff of toff about the place whatsoever.
While it all looks gorgeously polished, unsurprisingly, the castle was found in a state of ruins when Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti set out renovating the place as a family home back when they snagged it back in the 1970s. Today, it’s all run under the watchful eyes of their three sons Neri, Brando and Corso each of whom have left their mark on the place over the years. The result is a tastefully personal rendition of a modern and storied Italian retreat with all the modcons and services to match.
Stylistically, it’s a bit of a mish of everything. There are all the breezy linens, tables chockers full of books and family totems, Tuscan antiques, period pieces picked up at auction over the years, countless oriental rugs, cabinets of curiosities filled with all sorts of ornamental china, and rooms filled with a medley of Indonesian pieces collected during the family’s time living abroad in Indonesia. The suites are just as eclectic. None are the same, but expect Indonesian daybeds, antique Persian rugs, modern art pieces and intricately carved wooden vintage chest that shriek wow.
Copper tin (and marble) baths are also part of the deal, and if you find yourself in the Hollywood-esque Chiesina apartment, a lovely pergola donning exceptional breezy views overlooking the countryside.
Farm to table is the dining ethos through and through. Sustainable living is not a trend here but, since the Castello opened up for business, the hotel has sourced from local farmers, nurtures herbs from their Italian gardens and picks all the fruits of the annual Tuscan harvest. Ingredients are also picked fresh from the veggie garden, eggs collected from the chicken coop and breads baked at the crack of dawn. As is the Tuscan way – the seasons dictate whatever appears on the menu, but if you do eat just one thing, go for the Fiorentina.
Surprisingly, and aside from lounging by the stonkingly gorgeous swimming pool, there’s a lot to do out in the sticks. Cooking lessons in the kitchen, horseback riding in the valley, morning yoga classes, massages in the wood-lined spa, wine tasting in the vineyards and barbecues at the familial coastal estate. My advice is to ditch it all for a spin in the estate’s vintage Cinquecento. All guests can take the charming little motor out for a spin on request, day or night. It’s best summed up as la dolce vita to the max and perhaps this Castello’s prime Instagram opp. Or if you just don’t want to do anything, hang out with the estate’s cute dog Uva.
Top Takeaways
Location: Poggi del Sasso GR, Italy
Address: Via Vicarello, 1, 58044 Poggi del Sasso GR, Italy
Rating: 5-star
The vibe: Rural living with a touch of fash mag glam hag.
Food + Drink: Farm to table at its finest. Here, dining and brunching is not a trend. It’s a lifestyle. You will never eat the same thing here, and that’s the beauty of why repeat guests keep flocking back annually.
Amenities: restaurant, bar, spa
What’s nearby: The rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside, and if you need a dose of civilisation, the stunning medieval city of Sienna is a mere 40 minutes drive away.
Any personal neighbourhood reccs? You are in the sticks, so no. Pack a book and laze by the pool.
Rooms: Nine suites.
Pricing: From about 2,000 USD per night.
Closest international airport: Sienna, Rome or Florence.
