Tucked in an unprepossessing location on Avenue A in the East Village—and neighboring one of the city’s favored Italian spots, Lil’ Frankie’s—Foul Witch is an understated wine bar and eatery that’s, quite frankly, not talked about enough.
Past the front entrance, guests will be taken aback by the restaurant’s size: it’s more spacious than you’d think. Gothic-influenced architecture is imbued in a ribbed vault-style setting with curved and arched ceilings, creating pockets throughout the elevated dining scape. Elegant contemporary glass chandeliers hang from the roof, while ambient lighting facilitated by candles sparks a moody ambiance. It’s classy, not pretentious.
As you move throughout the space, a large table meant for groups lines a mural-painted wall. The kitchen is presented in an open-layout fashion with a wood-fired oven, allowing all eyes to see the chefs at work. Sometimes, a light, smokey haze fills the restaurant from certain dishes sizzling in the oven or on the stovetop. While that might sound unappealing, it doesn’t negatively impact the experience; it enhances its sultry aura (literally from the heat and figuratively from the atmosphere).
When you turn to finally glance over the menu and figure out what you’re ordering, you’re a little perplexed at first; it’s not typical Italian cuisine with spaghetti and red sauce or a salt-crusted branzino. The Tuscan-inspired list throws some risky dishes at you. (The Testa, Geoduck, and Guinea Hen are just a few of the plates that surprised us.)
After asking the wait staff for guidance, you’ll be steered in the right direction and ready for the culinary journey to begin. The sign of any good restaurant begins with the bread: Foul Witch delivers freshly baked, warm baguettes, and fluffy, olive oil-soaked focaccia with flaky-sea-salt garnished butter. Simply put, it was a divine way to begin the meal.
Then, there’s the Wagyu Carpaccio, served with hot peppers on the side to add a dash of spice. When we say this thin slice of meat melts in your mouth, we mean it. Recommended additions to the appetizer round included the Sorana Beans and the Maine Day Boat Scallops, which arrived at the table seared perfectly golden brown on each side and dressed over a Kohlrabi and sweet corn medley.
Now, we said Foul Witch leans on the inventive side of a run-of-the-mill Italian trattoria, yes, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have pastas on their menu. Best of all, you’re not so full from the aperitivo that you have two bites of the main course(s) and must take the rest home. The portion control here is spot on, meaning you can order not one but two pastas to split.
Between the Capellini Dungeness Crab and the Veal Tortellini, it’s hard to say who’s the star of the show. The Dungeness crab noodles are punched with a fusion of flavors from its sauce (think: spicy, creamy, and bursting with flavor) and garnished with fennel and Serrano chili. The tortellini is served in an amaretto broth that perfectly complements the freshly made pasta.
As for the entrées, the Black Cod, comprising a smoked cod fish filet with a basil salad medley and an olive oil tahini sauce, wows your taste buds to finish. However, if you crave more meat, opt for the Dry-Aged Lamb Shoulder, which comes alongside mint jelly.
While known for their funky natural wine list, they’ve recently added a selection of smashing cocktails to their libation options. We were intrigued by the Hideo’s Martini, featuring vodka from Mount Etna, kombu-infused Junmai sake, Piparra brine, and a couple of drops of new harvest olive oil. Another standout is the Nightclubbing, which combines Japanese whiskey, sweet vermouth, fernet, and walnut.
From its imaginative Italian-leaning dishes to its vibey and stylish interiors, Foul Witch deserves more attention than it’s used to—and we’re more than willing to give it the spotlight it deserves.
Top Takeaways
Location: East Village, New York City
Address: 15 Avenue A, New York, NY 10009
Cuisine: Italian
The vibe: An authentic Italian trattoria serving innovative Tuscan-inspired plates in an understated, spooky atmosphere in NYC’s authentic East Village.
Pricing: $$
Takes reservations? Yes – Resy. Reservations are recommended. Tables open 14 days in advance, at 9 AM.
Our favorite dish on the menu: Our taste buds were bursting with happiness with every bite—and then we tried the Capellini Dungeness Crab, filling us with pure joy.
The attire: Smart casual
Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner: Open for dinner Wednesdays through Sundays from 5 to 10 p.m.
