There’s no place more iconic for a creative than the Hotel Chelsea. Built in the late 1800s, the property has famously served as a home base to the likes of Janis Joplin, Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, and Mark Twain–just to name a few. And while the hotel received a chic makeover and reopened in 2022 with high-end aesthetics and expensive cocktails–the rock-and-roll spirit remains throughout. We spent 24 hours at the Hotel Chelsea–from cocktail hour to dinner to breakfast and the spa–and here’s what to expect.
The 12-story Queen Anne Revival and Victorian Gothic building underwent an 11-year closure that resulted in an almost top-to-bottom renovation but still managed to maintain the vibe that could best be described as bougie-bohemian. Because times change, right? In the late 60s, resident Leonard Cohen famously wrote the lyrics: “I remember you well in the Chelsea Hotel. You were talkin’ so brave and so sweet. Givin’ me head on the unmade bed. While the limousines wait in the street.” These days, Taylor Swift is singing, “You’re not Dylan Thomas, I’m not Patti Smith. This ain’t the Chelsea Hotel, we’re modern idiots,” only to prove the relevance of such an iconic landmark.
The Hotel Chelsea still feels like an apartment building, and technically it is, to those 40-ish residents who’ve been grandfathered in and managed to maintain their full-time homes scattered about the hotel rooms. Now, guest rooms have been refreshed with the utmost care and offer a sense of nostalgia-marries-luxury at every turn. The bedding has been upgraded, the furnishings have been ensconced in velvet and animal print, and the bathrooms have been spruced up with modern tiling and bronze details. But you’ll still find hints of the old rooms: sky-high ceilings, original fireplaces, stained-glass windows, and oversized balconies that look upon the iconic bright-red sign are all original. On our visit, we met neighboring guests from Paris, smoking cigarettes and drinking Champagne until the wee hours on our shared balcony. Maybe times haven’t changed so much.
Our stay started with an early cocktail hour in the Lobby Bar, which gives off serious rich granny vibes. The tableside Duke’s Martini is ice-cold, strong, and expensive–and worth it for the presentation alone. Then, just a few steps down the hall, we’re off to dinner at El Quijote, open since 1930 and then a gathering spot for all of the hotel’s regular ragamuffins. The once-shabby stalwart has since been spiffed up (just enough) and serves signature Spanish dishes in a dark and moody space. One could hit the town, but our room felt more like our very own downtown apartment, so we decided to pretend it was as such. Come morning, the new Cafe Chelsea serves a perfect French omelet with herbs and a beautiful Pain Perdu (along with lunch and dinner if you so desire).
Recently opened in January 2024 is the Spa at the Hotel Chelsea, perched on the Penthouse level with its own private garden sanctuary. Arrive early to have a sauna and a seat (inside near the fireplace or al fresco) and request the treatment room with a clawfoot and city view. Our advice would be to book The Cure, which the hotel describes as best suited for those who say, “I’m never drinking again,” and includes a 15-minute soak.
Top Takeaways
Location: New York City, New York
Address: 222 West Twenty-Third Street, New York, N. Y. 10011
Rating: Four-star
The vibe: An iconic New York City hotel that manages to capture creative history with a modern and luxe update.
Food + Drink: Guests can dine in the historic El Quijote, have a tableside-made martini in the Lobby Bar, and then have a French-style breakfast at the Cafe Chelsea.
Our favorite part of the hotel: Beyond the staff—guests want for nothing here–the new penthouse spa is incredible (request the massage room with its own clawfoot tub).
Amenities: Bar and restaurants; Fitness studio; Room service; and Spa
What’s nearby? The Highline; Chelsea Market; Rizzoli Bookstore; The Museum at FIT; Sleep No More; Cookshop; Tia Pol; Sid Gold’s Request Room
Any personal neighborhood recs? Take a walk down The Highline with a coffee in hand from Intelligentsia.
Rooms: 158
Pricing: Rates start at $560/night.
