Seen from above, southwest Germany is one dark swoosh of pine trees. So thick they can look black rather than green, the conifers give the region its name. The Black Forest famously inspired the Grimm brothers’ fairytales, from Little Red Riding Hood to Hansel and Gretel. Over 200 years later, its main industry, now tourism, is casting a different kind of spell. Travelers are lured by spectacular landscapes, historic architecture, and traditional charm bursting forth like the ubiquitous cuckoo clocks around every corner. With countless quaint towns to choose from, our recommendation is Freudenstadt, where you can refuel with Swabian specialties after a hike and wash them down with a local spirit that might just make you forget about German beer. Read on for our definitive pocket guide to a picture-perfect weekend.
Where to Stay
Fritz Lauterbad Hotel
Located directly on the Swabian Alb, this German Design award-winning hotel boasts panoramic views and one of the prettiest outdoor pools you’ll ever see. You can set off directly into the forest from the hotel for a walk; afterward, a top-notch spa complete with three different saunas is sure to melt away any aches or pains. The gingerbread-esque façade on one section of the Fritz has beautifully maintained a traditional look, while the other wing is all modern elegance. Rooms are a seamless blend of both.
Where to Eat
Turm Brauhaus
This authentic brewery turns out homestyle food worth seeking out in addition to traditional beers. You can tap your own or watch the master brewer at work while enjoying hearty specialties like rich beef goulash or crispy schnitzel with Bavarian potato salad. There are lighter options featuring seasonal ingredients, too; chanterelle and white asparagus season is a particularly delicious time to visit.
Bienenkörble
A rustic wood-paneled dining room in the culinary-focused Gruner Wald hotel, Bienenkörble serves up more local favorites in the Black Forest style. It’s a great place to try flavorful stuffed maultaschen; according to legend, the dumplings were invented by 17th-century monks. Forbidden to eat meat during Lent, they disguised it in pasta wrappers like ravioli so that God couldn’t see. Locals call them “little God-cheaters.”
Where to Drink
Apartment 47
Hidden in the Fritz Lauterbad Hotel, Apartment 47 is the only speakeasy hotel room in the world. Subtle clues—or winking staff—can help guide you there. Designed with the local gin purveyors of Monkey 47 to encourage an evening offline, it’s outfitted with a usable typewriter, vintage games, a record player, and even VHS tapes. You’ll probably be tempted to take pictures anyway; with vibrant floral wallpaper, leather sofas, and chairs, and a tile-topped bar in every shade of forest green, Apartment 47 couldn’t be more Instagrammable.
Where to Visit
Monkey 47 distillery
The Black Forest is famous for its eponymous juniper-cured ham and chocolate cherry cake. But the first German gin on the market also comes from this luscious corner of the country. Monkey 47 sources many of its 47 botanicals straight from the Black Forest, with exceptions for the very best lingonberries from Scandinavia and lemons from Sicily, which are peeled by hand every morning. The distillery sits just steps from the edge of the forest in a bucolic fantasy land of rolling green hills dotted with farm animals. Inside, follow the gin’s journey from earthenware vessels to the magnificent copper still, and taste your way through the offerings, from sweet sloe gin to the annual distiller’s cut. It’s a limited-edition release that features a different extra ingredient every year and causes quite a stir among collectors.
Tour This Haunted Hotel
It’s apparent at first glance that the grand but dilapidated Hotel Waldlust has seen better days. Opened as a luxury hotel in 1902, it became a meeting place for royalty and silent film stars. Its last owner hosted dances and salons that brought socialites to the Black Forest—until she was murdered there in 1949. She’s said to have haunted its walls ever since. Visitors can explore the cavernous and creepy rooms, now fallen into complete disrepair and a popular setting for crime and horror stories, with helpful historical photographs to put it all in context. There are guided tours, themed events, and overnight stays available for the brave.
