Rewind a few decades back, and the story goes that acclaimed Frenchie Raymond Blanc drove up to the front door of an old 15th-century Manor House in Great Milton (Oxfordshire) and made the then-owner an offer they obviously couldn’t refuse. It opened its doors to the buzzing hotel glitterati in 1984 and has retained its two Michelin stars since then. And yes, the French chef and his team are very proud of it. Perhaps the most quizzical thing about this place is that, when you take it at face value, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, a Belmond Hotel, isn’t a hotel in the traditional sense at all. There’s no swish pool, no spa, no gym, and no resident insufferable yogi. What you have in place of all the country house hotel mod cons is a restaurant with rooms enveloped by one of the country’s finest gardens and chefs. For foodies, yes, it’s all very lovely jubbly.
As for the vibe, it’s as manicured and vibrant as one of these old home grand dames can get. The gardens are landscaped to a tee, so ornamental in fact you almost feel guilty trodding along them. The fruit and veg patches are immaculate and all the green bits— from the grass to the bushes and trees—are clipped to minute precision. Not a leaf or branch, or rose trimming, was out of place. Oui, French might and prowess, personified to perfection. Provencal aesthetics sum up the rest of the ambiance with honey and terracotta-coloured stones and chimneys creeping into all of the surrounding greenery. The main house is quintessentially English: long creaky corridors, dark and moody alcoves, and chocolate box village windows that overlook a croquet lawn ruled by cooing woodpigeons. All so very Britannia.
Each of the house’s 32 rooms is inspired by Blanc’s memories and travels over the years. The best of the bunch comes courtesy of L’Orangerie, a cosy snug inspired by the orangery at a chateau that his grandparents used to care for. Couch galore reigns supreme, along with knick-knack totems and chandeliers that crown a rather lovely and comfy four-poster bed. What is most refreshing is that nothing in here feels as though it is “on trend.” There is a personal, classic touch to everything. Think tonal florals, Louis XVI chairs, marble bathrooms and patterned (but not gaudy) wallpaper. A private terrace gives the spot an added dose of privacy, and my advice is to have breakfast here so to escape the morning rush in the restaurant. It’s modern European with a smidge of Côte d’Azur French finesse for added effect.
All that lovely jargon to one side, the real reason people come here is for the grub. Blanc has been a pioneer of farm-to-table cooking for decades, and here you get a feeling of what it’s all really about. The seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings is a go-to fav. Each course comes plated like a finely placed Cartier watch, topped off with a dash of biodynamic vintages for an over-the-top soiree. It’s very vibrant and, wow, headlined by herbs and veg plucked straight from the garden, seasonal meats (from beef to duck), pasta numbers and the very best artisanal French and British cheeses your mouth will likely ever savour. I might have felt six months pregnant post-feast, but it was worth it, and despite the odd twinge of bloating, the grub gets a 10/10, easily.
For breakfast, the usual suspects make an appearance. Fresh fruits, yogurts, homemade granola and muesli, and all sorts of veggie offerings will keep your mouth munching and crunching all morning. But let’s face it, the croissants are what make this place and are some of the most delicious and calorific you will eat outside of French land.
While there is no spa and all, the place succeeds at keeping you busy. Cookery and garden classes are a right insightful laugh and if you fancy a game of croquet, it is often encouraged. There’s also pruning classes, and if you are on a green mission for the year, Head Orchard Gardener Paula Fleming will give you plenty of tips. Elsewhere, Oxford is a mere half hour drive away, and if you fancy driving further afield, The Cotswolds, Blenheim Palace and Waddeson Manor are all within easy reach.
Top Takeaways
Location: Great Milton, Oxfordshire
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: Old England meets France, via a whirlwind of memories curated by Mr Blanc himself.
Food + Drink: Classic farm-to-table British with seasonal menus. It is the real reason people come here and is a legend among foodies as a result.
Amenities: Bar, restaurant, afternoon tea, gardens
Our Favourite Thing About the Hotel: Mr Blanc. His pre-dinner time appearances in the lounge are a lovely touch.
What’s Nearby? Oxford and The Cotswolds. Take your pick of some of England’s cutest villages to explore. The concierge team is there to help, too.
Any personal neighbourhood recs? The chances are, post dinner, you will be in a food coma, so just retire to your room, snooze, and then walk it all off in the lovely gardens.
Rooms: 32
Pricing: From about 1300 USD per night, including breakfast.
Closest Airport: London Heathrow
