Set the scene.
Nestled discreetly in Flatiron, Sushi by Scratch Restaurants is one of New York City’s top omakase dining experiences you could easily miss. Set just next to the Hong Kong Nail Spa, the restaurant is accessed via an unmarked concrete staircase tucked beneath the visible street-facing establishments, enhancing its mysterious allure.
With three seatings each evening—at 5:00 p.m., 7:15 p.m., and 9:30 p.m.—guests are encouraged to arrive 30 minutes early to enjoy the cozy, Orient-inspired waiting lair. Exposed brick walls, plush chocolate-brown leather banquette seating, and intricately carved wooden tables adorned with wax-dripping candles create a warm, authentic ambiance to start the night.
Upon arrival, the host greets you with a citrusy yuzu green tea cocktail and a warm hand towel to cleanse your hands after navigating the bustling city streets. This step is key, as utensils are not provided for the 17-course progressive nigiri tasting menu—not even chopsticks. As soothing Ryūkōka music (vintage Japanese tunes from the late 1920s to early 1960s) plays softly in the background, you’re escorted to the intimate 10-seat counter. Your name, carefully handwritten on a wooden chalkboard, designates your spot.
The experience begins with each chef introducing themselves and their role behind the counter, setting the tone for an intimate and personal evening. Designed by husband-and-wife duo Chefs Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee, the omakase focuses on an artisanal, “from scratch” approach to hospitality. With no servers, the chefs themselves guide you through the menu, creating a one-of-a-kind dining experience. Unsurprisingly, this Manhattan outpost of their Michelin-recognized restaurant group delivers yet another unforgettable culinary triumph.
Let’s start with the drinks.
The experience begins with the drinks, and the best approach is to trust the Sake Sommelier Gavin Humes by choosing one of their thoughtfully curated pairings. Options include the “Sake Pairing,” featuring six pours of premium Japanese sake for $140; the “Beverage Pairing,” offering three sakes, two micro-cocktails, and one Japanese beer for $130; or the “Japanese Whiskey Flight,” with five 1-ounce pours of premium whiskey for $140. For those with specific preferences, there’s also an à la carte menu of carefully selected offerings.
We opted for the “Beverage Pairing” to expand our horizons, and it proved to be a perfect match for each course. The skilled bartender ensured seamless pacing, aligning each drink with the corresponding bite. For the sake selections, he described the nuances of each variety, inviting us to explore flavors like “a touch of sweetness” or “earthier, woodsy notes” and how they complemented the sushi.
To keep things balanced, we interspersed the pairings with one or two mocktails—an essential move when combining sake, whiskey, and beer. Among the highlights was the “Bees Japanese,” a refreshing mix of smoked lavender honey and yuzu juice, offering a delightful twist on the classic lemon counterpart. It was the perfect palate cleanser to round out the evening.
What can we expect from each course?
Once the drinks are sorted, the sushi experience begins, with each piece artfully assembled and paired with in-depth descriptions from the lively and engaging staff. Behind the counter, a curated lineup of classic and inventive combinations takes center stage, featuring ingredients like kampachi, squid, albacore, toro, escolar, eel, uni, and marrow.
With fish and shellfish flown in twice weekly from Tokyo’s renowned Toyosu Fish Market, each bite feels fresher than the last. Some standout moments include the Hamachi, delicately brushed with a sweet yellow corn glaze and topped with breadcrumbs made from Kallas-Lee’s signature sourdough. Lee’s celebrated roasted bone marrow nigiri delivers a savory punch seasoned with soy sauce, sea salt, and freshly grated wasabi root. Other highlights include the New Zealand sake salmon sushi dusted with matcha tea salt and the Unagi (freshwater eel), fried to crispy perfection in rendered bone marrow fat from the previous course, then elevated with poblano yuzu kosho, soy sauce, ponzu, lemon, and sea salt.
For a grand finale, dessert showcases Chef Margarita’s Matcha Bon Bon, infused with makrut lime, white chocolate, and sesame coconut shortbread. This indulgence is paired with a warming green tea brewed with a touch of umeshu plum wine, smoked lavender honey, and fresh yuzu, bringing the evening to a perfectly harmonious close.
Final thoughts?
After two hours of culinary artistry at Sushi by Scratch, guided by their skilled chefs and sommeliers through every bite and sip, you’re left wondering why you don’t indulge in omakase dining more often. Then it hits you—finding a dining experience as exceptional as Sushi by Scratch isn’t nearly as easy as it seems.
Top Takeaways
Location: Flatiron, New York City
Address: 15 E 21st Street (Descend the stairs for entry)
Cuisine: Omakase
The vibe: A refined sushi counter that blends sleek city style with Michelin-level sophistication.
Pricing: $$$$ (The signature New York tasting experience is $245 per person.)
Takes reservations? With only 10 seats and fixed seating times, reservations are a must. Book through Tock.
Our favorite dish on the menu: It may have been the first bite, but the Hamachi with sweet yellow corn pudding and sourdough breadcrumbs set the bar impossibly high.
The attire: Smart casual
Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner: Dinner seating is offered nightly at 5:00 p.m., 7:15 p.m., and 9:30 p.m.
