At last, a British country house hotel that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Yes, the dark side of most Blighty retreats is that most have their heads firmly stuck up their own backsides, but this is not the case at this quirky countryside idyll hidden away in Devon’s gloriously gorgeous Otter Valley. Over the years The Pig has amassed a loyal following of devotee Brits (and Americans) who want a manor house experience without all the fluff and theatrical stuffy nonsense. While it’s all exquisite, dandy and overtly characterful in appearance, the real charm of the now B-Corp certified brand is that it’s a hotel empire that delivers all the goods without having a stiff upper lip, a philosophy which runs throughout every nook and cranny in sight.
Set on a hill overlooking swathes of farmland and rolling hills, the storied Grade-I listed lodge dates all the way back to Elizabethan times and is the master work of Pig founders Robin and Judy Hutson. It ticks all the quintessential country stay boxes: ivy-clad walls; antique furniture; ramparts plastered with original artworks and portraiture (think family portraits, botanical illustrations and the odd taxidermy curio); tables stacked with eclectic pottery and ceramics; antique furniture; and sparkling chandeliers. Colour pallet? Natural and earthy to a tee. Period beams run riot, alongside exposed stone walls, hessian carpets and pops of red, green and grey blush. It’s Disney princess cottage vibes, but way more chic.
The rooms are just as charming. Every single one of them has been thoughtfully designed by Judy, who selected, handpicked and inspected every single bit of vintage furniture, reclaimed wood and antique glassware you’ll find in each of the graded 35 boudoirs. My room for the night was simply called “1.” Set in the main house, it was the definition of its category, comfy luxe. Standout features come courtesy of the big four-poster bed and all the giant windows spying views of Devon’s gloriously green pastures, but the star of the show was the gigantic bathroom crowned by the roll-top bath and monsoon shower. Bramley toiletries also add an extra dose of zing to the morning rituals, too.
Food? Simply glorious. “Virtually everything on your plate comes within a 25-mile radius”, hotel manager Chris Charles tells me on a tour throughout the house. “We work with local farms, suppliers and keep our links with the community as tight nit as possible to ensure guests get top quality on their plates.” Near 60 percent of the greens you eat here come from the kitchen garden – from salad leaves to veggies, fruit and herbs – all of which are incorporated into the ever changing seasonal menus mastered up by current head chef Rob Neil. It’s, as Head Gardner Peter masterfully sums up, a “consciously aware and accountable pot-to-table ethos.” The result is a restaurant menu that is simple, but excellent. Dishes change all the time (except the Pig staple pork chop) and that’s why it’s become such a destination hole-in-the-wall over the years. This visit, we gorged on everything from lamb shoulder to piggies, thrice cut chips and roasted heritage carrots. Though it sounds heavy, the superiority of the produce makes it slide down with ease (especially with a glass of Chablis in hand). Brekkie is just as artisanal with a banquet selection of pastries, fruit compotes and granolas, plus delicious fry ups. Pig out, I did.
R&R comes in the form of great long walks and a myriad of local restaurant recommendations and coastal routes to explore. The excellent team can lay out a personalised itinerary for you, or just follow the mini guide packed with local reccs in your room. My advice is to stay put. While there’s a spa featuring all sorts of homegrown treatments, the beauty of a night or two here is simply just being. Sit your tush on a bench and allow time to do what it does best, fly by.
Top Takeaways
Location: Gittisham, Devon, England
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: Classic country chic, but without the stuffiness and snobbery.
Food + Drink: Farm-to-table excellence with seasonal matches that follows one of the greenest hotel philosophies out there.
Amenities: restaurant, bar, spa
Our favourite thing about the hotel: The staff. They are down-to-earth, chill, personal and extremely attentive and will anticipate your next move before you have even made it. There’s nothing fake or forced about them. They are just plain nice. Top marks.
What’s Nearby? Rolling hills. They go on for miles so whack on a pair of wellington boots and go for a good old long walk.
Any personal neighbourhood recs? Stay put. You are on a 5,000-acre estate. Sit on a bench. Read a book. And just let time do what it does best, fly by.
Rooms: 35
Pricing: From about 460 USD per night.
Closest Airport: London Heathrow or London Gatwick.
