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The Indonesian Island Escape Where Buffalo Roam the Beach and Local Culture Takes Center Stage

The Sanubari is a magical property where time seems to move at a snail’s pace. Situated on the remote south coast of the Indonesian island of Sumba, this hotel makes you feel like you are shipwrecked—if being shipwrecked meant washing up at your own private beachside villa. Set on a public largely deserted stretch of pristine sand, peppered with washed-up corals and conch shells, The Sanubari is a place to relax, switch off from the pace of modern life, and just be—in paradise, no less.

Sumba is an island you might have heard whispers about, perhaps from your most well-traveled friend, but it’s still largely untouched by tourists. Surprisingly, it’s just an hour from Bali by plane (there are at least two direct flights a day), but the island couldn’t feel more different. 

Sumba is rugged and wild, and because it has remained largely untouched by outside influence until recent years, the island has retained its unique religious and cultural traditions. The local Marapu rituals, animal sacrifices, megalithic burials, and elaborate local ceremonies remain central to the Sudanese people.

These unique local cultures and traditions are honored at The Sanubari. Each of the stunning private beachside villas is furnished with local handicrafts and traditional Ikat weavings from local villages. The 120-hectare grounds are dotted with local Sumbanese folk carvings and sculptures, and the hotel has developed a symbiotic relationship with the local community. 

Not only does the property employ over 100 people from nearby kampungs (the local villages with their unique pointed thatched dwellings), but it has also built a school nearby for local children, and its programming includes small trips to discover local traditions in a thoughtful and conscious way. Expect pottery demonstrations or a lesson in traditional Ikat weaving from a village elder.

When it comes to the property itself, The Sanubari exudes understated luxury. Each villa feels utterly secluded. Rooms are large, and every detail has been carefully considered—from the organic shower products to the Marshall speaker ready for your holiday playlist. Every villa has a private pool, an outside shower for rinsing off after a dip, and a stunning ocean view. The master bedroom looks out onto the beach, making it the perfect place to catch the sunrise (and sunset). Remember—we are really relaxing here.

Speaking of the beach, the 2.5-kilometer stretch of virgin white sand is the jewel in The Sanubari’s crown, and it’s where you’ll likely spend most of your visit. While it’s technically a public beach, you’re more likely to see a herd of buffalo being cajoled from one end of the bay to the other by a local farmer than hoards of holidaymakers. Local children will appear during low tide to pick seaweed and play football with guests. 

For those who like to surf, there are three rideable breaks just out front—and you can hire boards or book a lesson with the team. Or, you know, you can just relax with a book.

In Sumbanese tradition, horses are viewed as incredibly sacred: Sumba is known as The Land of Horses across Indonesia. The Sanubari allows guests to connect with its group of ponies through treks or bareback swims in the ocean. You might, if you are lucky, catch the group of horses running along the beach at sunset—their daily exercise—a truly magical experience to witness and one you won’t forget in a hurry.

Top Takeaways

Location: Sumba, Indonesia 

Address: Pantai Dasang, Harona Kala, Laboya Barat, West Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia

Rating: Five-star

The vibe: A toes-in-the-sand escape where laid-back luxury meets rich local customs. 

Food + Drink: The Sanubari’s restaurant and bar are low-key with an elevated beach bar feel. The bar serves innovative cocktails, peppered with locally grown ingredients, alongside local beers and a handful of wines. Enjoy in front of the nightly beach bonfire. Take the ten steps over to the beach-side restaurant where the team serves up local Indonesian dishes (think: nasi goreng, local fish with spicy sambals or a rendang curry) alongside well-executed international staples. There are no other restaurants nearby, so you’ll get to sample much of the menu during your stay – but there are more than enough options to keep things interesting. 

Our favorite part of the hotel: There is something magical about The Sanubari, which is hard to put into words. From the moment you arrive, you feel utterly relaxed: a sense of calm quite literally washes over you. The 100-strong staff made up of Sudanese locals are quick to make guests feel at home and the pristine (and more-or-less deserted) 2.5km beach where the hotel sits might be the most stunning we’ve ever seen. 

Amenities: Each villa has its own private plunge pool, outdoor dining area and multiple spots to sit and soak up the sun. In-room you’ll find a Bluetooth speaker and robes and slippers are provided as well as fresh drinking water on-demand. Guests can work out in the outdoor gym, or rent a surfboard and catch waves on the break that sits right in front of the hotel. 

What’s nearby? Not a lot – which is what makes The Sanubari so special. However, the team will be more than happy to organize an excursion to one of the local kampungs (traditional Sumbanese villages) or one of the island’s stunning waterfalls. Closer to the property guests can enjoy bareback horse riding along the beach, paddleboarding, surfing and yoga. 

Any personal neighborhood recs? This hotel is remote. Sumba is still very new to welcoming tourists (which is a huge part of its charm) so don’t expect any resorts, nightclubs or shops here. The hotel will become the hub of your stay, so sit back and enjoy doing very little. 

Rooms: 11 currently (with a handful more on the way in 2025)

Pricing: Rates start at $315 per night

Closest airport: Tambolaka Airport (Just a 50 minute flight from Bali’s Denpasar airport) 

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