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Hotel Reviews

This Apartment-Style Hotel Is a Boutique Gem in Lisbon’s Hippest Neighborhood

Credit: Francisco Nogueira

Lisbon begs to be explored. Sure, some of its most impressive assets (ahem, Castelo de S. Jorge, Belém Tower, and Jerónimos Monastery) are quite visible and recognizable. But there are some hidden gems waiting to be discovered throughout the Portuguese capital. One such treasure? The Lumiares Hotel & Spa, an 18th-century palace turned contemporary, apartment-style boutique bolthole and member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World in happening Bairro Alto. 

The main entrance to the property is tucked on a cobbled side street, which gives the impression that you’re staying in a true neighborhood. Once inside, the many charms of The Lumiares Hotel & Spa become visible. The lobby has a nice little seating area to take a load off and a cabinet stocked with a curated selection of local brands. 

Credit: Francisco Nogueira

It’s not every day that a small, urban hotel offers a spa — let alone one with more than a pair of tiny treatment rooms. The subterranean wellbeing area boasts four sanctuaries named after different neighborhoods in Lisbon. Guests and travelers in need of a little R&R can book rituals like deep tissue massages, reflexology, and personalized facials as well as use the sauna and hammam. 

The grand staircase that leads to the accommodations (don’t worry there’s also an elevator to transport bags or just give your legs a rest after all the hills) endures from the building’s regal past life. Following the overall theme of balancing old and new that’s pervasive throughout the hotel, the heritage architecture is brilliantly complemented by the trio of large-scale portraits and the modern, gilded light installation that hangs above. 

Credit: Francisco Nogueira

The suites are set up like sleek, residential abodes with separate living and sleeping spaces, plus fully equipped kitchens. The decor — from the herringbone headboards and striped throws pillows to the woven wall hangings and artwork — spotlights Portuguese creative talent. If you’re planning to stick around a few nights, it’s worth splurging on the sunlight-flooded Penthouse Miradouro, which boasts two bedrooms, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a private outdoor terrace with panoramic views that’s perfect for morning coffee or sunset cocktails. 

While the hotel possesses many enticing attributes, its crown jewel is without question the rooftop bar and restaurant. Sipping a playful tipple and nibbling fresh tuna ceviche, oxtail croquettes, and roasted octopus overlooking the rolling cityscape and the Tagus River equals peak Lisbon vacation vibes. With that said, the superb location of the property makes it impossible not to explore buzzy Bairro Alto and the equally vibrant Principe Real nearby. 

Top Takeaways

Location: Lisbon, Portugal

Rating: Five-Star

The Vibe: An oh-so-chic Portuguese pal’s apartment with vestiges of aristocracy. 

Food + Drink: Guests can enjoy breakfast at the rooftop restaurant on the 5th floor. Outside patrons are encouraged to make a reservation for brunch, lunch, and dinner. Expect a seasonally driven menu of petiscos (Portuguese tapas) and craft cocktails. 

Amenities: restaurant and bar; spa; fitness center; concierge; Wi-Fi; Claus Porto bath products

Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: The rooftop terrace is one of the best spots to grab a drink in the city.

5 Nearby Attractions: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, Jardim Botânico de Lisboa, Castelo de S. Jorge, Museu de Sao Roque, National Tile Museum

Any Personal Neighborhood Recs? Many of the top restaurants in Lisbon are located within a short walk from the hotel. BAHR, Tapisco Lisboa, and Restaurante Pica-Pau serve some of the tastiest Portuguese cuisine around. Looking to try something that’s a departure from garlic shrimp and seafood rice? Order the soft-shell crab topped with tangy chutney at Gunpowder Lisboa.

Rooms: 47 apartment-style suites

Pricing: Rooms start at $270/night  

Closest Airport: Humberto Delgado Airport

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