Just a 45-minute ferry ride from Santorini, you arrive at the island of Folegandros, wondering what to expect. Coming from the Cyclades’ most populated (and quite frankly, tourist-ridden) attraction, Folegandros is quite the opposite: remote, rural, and completely unbothered. It feels like you returned to Greece 50 years ago, where going off the grid was a reality.
With its raw, untouched beaches—which require a hike or small boat trip to reach—and its capital, Chora, hanging precariously from a lofty cliff and boasting an emblematic hilltop church, Folegandros easily rivals any of its Cycladic Island neighbors in beauty. Read our guide below to discover why this destination needs to be on your Greek island-hopping itinerary.
Where to Stay
ANEMI Folegandros
Located on the unassuming Greek island of Folegandros, ANEMI Folegandros stands out as one of the premier boutique hotels for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path vacation. With a show-stopping turquoise swimming pool flanked by vibrant yellow umbrellas and sun chairs and white-washed Cycladic-style abodes scattered across the property, this hotel perfectly embodies the chic boutique aesthetic.
Gundari Resort
Gundari, poised to be a top destination in the Cyclades, stands out with its unique design and amenities. Eschewing the typical white-washed look, its ocean-facing suites are adorned with earthy sand tones and private infinity-edge plunge pools. The expansive property offers an upscale restaurant, a community pool with a swim-up bar, a glamorous spa, a well-equipped fitness center, and a wedding venue, making it a standout resort.
Where to Eat
Belégra Aegean Tastes
This design-forward mezedopoleio—Greek for a restaurant specializing in meze—sits in the heart of Folegandros’ Chora. It offers delectable Mediterranean-inspired small and medium-sized plates. The service is exceptional, creating an intimate atmosphere that makes you feel as if you’re dining in your own private, family-owned restaurant.
Ktima Paliomilos
Ktima Paliomilos is a charming wine bar and outdoor restaurant on the edge of Chora’s town square. Savor the vineyard’s exquisite wines while indulging in culinary delights such as caramelized honey-mustard chicken drumsticks with crushed roasted potatoes and chilled cucumber soup topped with leek chips and basil oil.
Pounta
Tucked just below the trail to the Church of Panagia, Pounta is the ideal spot for a brunch break. Behind its eye-catching exterior, adorned with vibrant pink bougainvillea, guests can discover a hidden garden perfect for savoring Greek coffee, yogurt, and a variety of delicious breakfast plates accompanied by fresh-squeezed juices—orange, ginger, peach, pear, and more.
Where to Drink
Beez Cocktail Bar
Beez Cocktail Bar has transformed into a stylish, lively local hangout within a traditional Cycladic home. The refreshed interiors and elevated ambiance are captivating on their own, but the soundtrack—soul, swing, funk, and reggae—truly brings the space to life. Some of their classic libations are served in quirky skulls or tiki totem ceramics, which adds to the spunky vibe.
Café Aquarius
Café Aquarius exudes the charm of an old soul. The bar, adorned with recycled cigarette cartons and iconic ‘70s album covers, pulses with rock ‘n’ roll energy. From morning to night, Café Aquarius is the perfect spot to savor cappuccinos and pancakes in the early hours and return for a post-dinner nightcap while jamming to classic tunes—where the essence of European summer sinks in.
Where to Visit
Walk Up to the Church of Panagia
A winding, zig-zag cobbled path leads to this daunting church, and the trek up to the top is worth it for breathtaking views of the island and the sea. In the courtyard and interior of the church, one will find ancient inscriptions, sculptures, statue bases, and a marble epigraph dating back to 1687.
Explore the Shops Around Chora’s Main Square
The walkways of Chora are dotted with charming boutiques that are well worth a browse. Among our favorites were Kalderimi, Flomos Folegandros, and Malama. Each shop offered the kind of place where you can easily find a gift or two for friends and family back home—along with a little something for yourself, of course.
Stop by Karavostasis: Folegandros’ Port Town
While it’s easy to pass through Karavostatsis after disembarking from the ferry, this charming port town is well worth a visit during your stay. Enjoy fresh seafood with picturesque views of the bay at DAL CAPO del Porto or Vegera Restaurant, where you can indulge in breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Cruise Around the Island’s Best Beaches
Folegandros’ beaches emerge unexpectedly, as if sculpted from the land itself to create serene, crystal-clear coves. Popular beaches include Agkali, Karavostasis, and Livadi while renting an ATV or taking a boat tour reveals secluded spots like Katergo and Agios Georgios Beach, which are perfect for a more private experience.
