Il San Pietro di Positano really does live up to its reputation as one of the world’s best. Step beyond its guarded gates, and a vision of heaven grips you: winding floral-flecked perfumed bougainvillea staircases; fringes of marble statues overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea; and a pool blessed by the nucleic cores of the universe itself. Yes, this is life as it should be, idealised to its greatest form set to the humdrum and drama of an Ennio Morricone soundtrack.
Though it comes with a lot of Amalfi cred (the film stars and royalty love it), at its heart, the hotel like many others on the coast, is a family-run operation and it shows thanks to its down-to-earth and familial approach to, well, everything. Storied and adored by decades of starlets and La Dolce Vita junkies, San Pietro began life as the home of Carlo Cinque, who over the years, expanded the hotspot into what eventually would become one of the most iconic Italian grand dames of the century.
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Location-wise, it’s pretty hard to beat. Suites and rooms are carved into the rock face away from the prying eyes of tourists. People come here not just for the exclusive privacy, but also the quiet and to escape the madness of Positano, the kaleidoscopic craggy glitterati pitstop the hotel looks out to over on the north. Style? It serves all the vibes. Discreet retro glamour oozes like an omnipresent playful pun. Nothing here takes itself too seriously, and perhaps the success to its everlasting gloriousness, is that nothing ever seems to stray on the ostentatious or vulgar. It is refreshingly simplistic, wondrously nostalgic (without trying to be) and luxuriously so.
The bedrooms and classy suites roll down the cliff-side in a series of plant-flecked terraces, some of them mind bogglingly huge. My room for the night was Suite 59, AKA, Virginia, one of the most famous and printed rooms on the Amalfi Coast. Redesigned with a playful sea theme by Fausta Gaetani, it’s a demi palace set on an entire floor spying views of the azure horizon from all corners: the bed, the shower, the balcony and grand living room. Jazzy hand painted ceramic tiles dominate, as do loud Mediterranean colours, fabrics in sunny Amalfi layers and shapeshifting grand chandeliers that glow on dazzling white walls. Other wild perks include direct access to the panoramic swimming pool, espresso mornings on the belvedere, and come tanning hour, direct lift access to the beach club.
The culinary scene at San Pietro is as ridiculously romantic as all the rooms. Zass, from the Michelin-starred chef Alois Vanlangenaeker, serves up seasonal gourmet grub on a golden sun-lit terrace eyeing the dramatic southern Italian coast. The menu changes often – except for the wildly delicious melt-in-your mouth pizza – but expect from freshly caught fish; tender meats; breezy salads or just go all out on the tasting menu.
Aperitivo hour(s) is also a major feast for the senses. Grab a spot on the majolica-tiled benches high above the breaking waves just before dusk hits. Gin-infused cocktails, plus a glass of champs makes for the perfect pre-dinner sundowner.
More casual eats are served beachside at Carlino. Expect local dishes such as mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves, spaghetti with courgettes or clams. Breakfast? A very hearty affair also served at Zass. The giant breakfast spread dons bowls of fresh fruit, mountains of pastries, freshly squeezed juices, local cheeses, smoked salmon and rare roast beef, creamy locally made yogurt and homemade breads and jam. Eggs are served anyway with an oh so trendy slab of avocado, too.
Exploring the hotel is also part of the fun, and pretty much the main reason why so few choose not to leave it when they check in. A spectacular tennis court, chic beach club with private sea access, an iconic sea-facing swimming pool, spa, gym and cliff trickling fabulous, terraced gardens keep deliver the goods (and the aesthetics) 24/7. If you do want to stray away, my advice is simple: charter a boat for a sunset extravaganza to Capri and back, or head to legendary restaurant Da Adolfo for an alfresco tête-à-tête.
I’ve stayed here a few times now, and the beauty of the Il San Pietro is that it never changes. Not in a boring stagnate kind of way, but in a time capsule, and one in which the service never ponders, nor does its style never seem out of touch. This hotel is pure class, pure quality; and so long may it reign as the Amalfi Coast’s crowning jewel. 10 out of 10.
Top Takeaways
Location: Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: Retro glamour meets La Dolce vintage timelessness under the magical glow of Italian sunset hues. Yup, magic in other words.
Amenities: restaurants, bar, spa, beach club, boutique, tennis court, pool
Our favourite thing about the hotel: It’s a time capsule, and one that is always stupendously relevant no matter the decade.
What’s nearby? The bustle of Positano and the demure glam of Praiano. They are worth day trips, but when you stay here, you never really want to leave.
Any personal neighbourhood reccs? Stay put by the pool or at the beach club. Trust me.
Rooms: 57
Pricing: From about 1133 USD per night.
Closest international airport: Naples or Salerno.
