Le Sirenuse is a legend on the Amalfi Coast hotel scene for a reason. Cool, sophisticated, expensive and oozing the feel of a private home, its elevated position from the craggy, colourful Positano coastline is, quite simply, mystically unrivalled. As soon as you enter place it’s obvious that first impressions really do count: staff are immaculate like a well-oiled flashy watch and there’s a certain quasi calmness that really bites superdeep. There’s not an air of stuffy drab Aristo bitch about the place, either. There’s soul here…this is no ordinary hotel; it’s a lifestyle.
Once a former aristocratic villa, Le Sirenuse’ storied past tells a tale of romanticized Amalfi passion chronicling generations of the family business: beautiful furniture, curios, and antique mementos shine amongst an impressive collection of period and contemporary paintings, alongside specially commissioned art pieces crafted by the likes of Martin Creed, Stanley Whitney, and Matt Connors that shine throughout. But don’t just take our word for it. One of the siren’s first guests, author John Steinbeck, described it as a “first class hotel, spotless and cool, with grape arbors over its outside dining rooms.” Seventy years later, it’s still hits a suite spot and current owners Carla and Antonio Sersale bring elegance, class and pedigree smarts, and have done to legions of insiders for decades.
Rooms? Just as literary. The individually furnished boudoirs are packed with a collection of super chic museum-quality antiques and paintings, along with contemporary bric-a-bracs that overlook the most stunning hand-made Vietri-tiled floors. Bathrooms, clad with grey-white Carrara marble, pack in just as much wow factor with giant jacuzzi tubs that are stocked with Eau d’Italie made by Sersale’s sister Marina. The major highlight comes courtesy of the terraces that make the most of the seriously glam Positano views, and perhaps the best place to enjoy an Aperitivo outside of the very flashy Franco’s Bar. It’s all very typical med style, and that has been part of the hotel’s alluring charm since it opened back in 1951.
Service throughout is impeccable, orchestrated with top-notch southern Italian class served with a sort of “nothing is too much to ask” attitude. Those in search of a little pampering will experience superb treatments in the Gae Aulenti-designed Aveda spa, and for a wardrobe upgrade oozing the chicest Positano looks, Emporio Sirenuse is the place to go (and be seen). To skip the crowds, jump on one of the hotel’s super Instagrammable boats; there’s a wooden gozzo for complimentary trips, and a very starlet-worthy vintage Riva speedboat for sunset cruises with champagne and sweeping Posi Posi views.
At least one over-the-top dinner at La Sponda is a must. Yes, it’s serving all the vibes thanks to its excellent pasta spun with local lobster, mouth-wateringly tender slab of veal, and killer good desserts (the cocooned chocolate tiramisu is a must), but it’s the experience that truly dazzles: the panoramas (yes, again), to the army of 400 glowing candles and a trio of fine Italians who serenade you with guitars and mandolins. Pre-dinner, head for the super-hip Franco’s bar for oysters and bubbles or on the more relaxed terrace for a cocktail, plus golden sundowner. Breakfast, served on the pool terrace, is also a hearty affair. The menu includes homemade granola, eggs cooked anyway, and all sorts of healthy options ideal post the carb-heavy dinner the night before. The Instagram is mandatory, especially for all the sweet treats and legions of mozzarella gracing the banquet-style buffet.
Extracurricular? There are lots of extras included: Pre-brekkie Pilates and workout classes, guided walks up the nearby hill villages, wine tasting, and perhaps the star of the show, arranged lunches at al fresco hotspot Da Adolfo Positano. Tip: eat everything that is suggested.
Top Takeaways
Location: Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: Storied bling, but done tastefully and not at all gaudy. The family has class, and it shows.
Amenities: restaurants, bar, spa, boutique, pool
Our favourite thing about the hotel: The location. It’s hard to beat and without sounding too sponny, Le Sirenuse really does sit in the beating heart of the town, and if you’re a guest, is obviously a major perk.
What’s nearby? The glitz, the glam and the boutiques of Positano. Here, you shop, and hard.
Any personal neighbourhood reccs? The main shopping drag is Via dei Mulini, but ditch it for the small shops and boutiques along the town’s steep streets, many of which serve up lashings of trendy “Positano Fashion.” You’ll also find a load of better quality and elegant boutiques along Via Pasitea.
Rooms: 58
Pricing: From about 827 USD per night
Closest international airport: Naples or Salerno.
Hotels Above Par may be compensated and/or receive an affiliate commission if products are purchased through our links, at no cost to you.
