In Williamsburg, it is not uncommon to find restaurants that claim to pay “homage to Brooklyn,” fusing American and Jewish fare. However, one of the neighborhood’s latest openings, Sungold, marries local flavors with global inspirations to create an unforgettable dining experience for travelers and residents alike.
At the helm stands Chef Michael King, a seasoned culinary virtuoso whose journey from his childhood kitchen to the bustling streets of New York City has imbued him with a profound appreciation for local and seasonal ingredients.
From Wythe Avenue, follow the curve of the wrought iron railing along the staircase descending towards Sungold’s separate entrance amidst Arlo Williamsburg’s lower level. A set of sliding doors reveal the lobby lounge, adorned with floor-to-ceiling brick walls and plush velvet banquettes. Make your way around the colorful, central wrap-around bar towards the main dining room. With the continuation of the exposed brick walls and dainty, dangling pendant lights, the space exudes a sense of rustic charm.
As diners settle into Sungold’s inviting embrace, they are treated to Chef King’s curated menu that celebrates the essence of Brooklyn’s gastronomic heritage. Expect to find handmade pasta, wood-fired pizzas, and unexpected dishes such as Celery Root Latkes. Highlights include Coperta––featuring sheets of egg pasta layered with a heritage pork ragù infused with locally crafted amaro––and Smoked Sunchokes, slowly cooked over applewood and adorned with pistachios and citrus-infused brown butter labneh.
Growing up in Massachusetts as the son of an Italian-American chef, Sungold offers several plates nostalgic for Chef King’s upbringing. Christo’s Seven Star Pizza––topped with pepperoni, bacon, and extra mozzarella––is a tribute to his childhood pizzeria. Charred Cabbage Caesar is served with smoked trout roe, migas, and a poached egg from a nearby farm.
Central to Sungold’s philosophy is its commitment to utilizing the wood-fired oven as the heart of its cuisine. The succulent, 22-ounce grass-fed Painted Hills Ribeye is finished in the oven before being served with a Hollandaise sauce. Chef King’s short rib is slowly braised before plating with spring parsnip, blackberry mustard, and arugula rabe. Each bears the unmistakable imprint of wood-fired flavors.
Complementing Sungold’s varied menu is a selection of libations crafted by mixologist Armando Acevedo. Guests can choose from innovative cocktails, wines from around the globe, and artisanal beers.
Guests should finish by indulging in one of Sungold’s three sumptuous desserts, designed to be shared and savored. Chocolate lovers should opt for the rich Chocolate Tart, while those who prefer something more fruit-forward should select the citrus-infused Semolina Cake with a scoop of blackberry sorbet. For something in between, try the Salted Caramel Gelato, set atop bruléed bananas and topped with toasted peanuts. Each proves a fitting conclusion.
At Sungold, all are encouraged to celebrate the rich tapestry of flavors that define Brooklyn. Whether seeking a leisurely brunch or an intimate dinner, every dish tells a story and every bite is a revelation.
Top Takeaways
Location: Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Address: 96 Wythe Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249 (within Arlo Williamsburg)
Cuisine: American
Price Point: $$
Takes reservations: Yes – OpenTable
The vibe: A rustic space set amidst the art-centric Arlo Williamsburg serving dishes centered around the wood-fired oven.
Our favorite thing on the menu: The homemade pastas are incredible, and even feature a twinge of flavor from the central oven.
The attire: Smart Casual
Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner: The all-day restaurant is open daily from 7:00 am – 10:00 pm with brunch on Sat and Sun from 7:30 am – 3:00 pm.
