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Hotel Reviews

Villa Treville—A Cinematic Escape on the Amalfi Coast Steeped in History and Mystery

It’s hard to describe Villa Treville because there’s nothing quite like it on The Amalfi Coast. Stubbornly unique, there’s an air of poetic mystery to the place, and sometimes it’s so evasive, it defies any concrete definition. Perhaps this is thanks to its previous owner, Franco Zeffirelli, the famed Italian stage and film director, producer, production designer and politician. Theatrics is what this rambling villa perilously hovering over the waves of Tyrrhenian Sea does best, and with the shadow of the craggy hills of Positano and the lamenting Path of The Gods serving as its backdrop, the hotel couldn’t wish for a more just and cinematically charged landscape.  

Charismatic to a tee, the villa feels more like a home than it does hotel. In fact, even describing it as such feels dirty. Built straight into the cliffside, privacy is top tier and this is a hallmark that, alongside Il San Pietro di Positano, Villa Treville is an expert at. Unlike the other swish pads that line the snaking coves of The Amalfi Coast, the villa takes its design cues from Moorish northern Africa. Think dim lit brass lanterns splashed across long winding hallways of Neapolitan furniture, Vietri tiles, Murano glass and an extensive assortment of local artwork and ceramists featured everywhere from the grand balcony to the winding staircases that spill into all the rooms. Naturally, remnants of Zeffirelli’s influence remain throughout. A collection of 18th century Catagirone pottery and the painstakingly planted vegetable gardens are trustee highlights. 

With 16 rooms and suites, it’s also the most boutique of the coast’s stellar grand dames. All are uniquely designed and are odes to former guests and famous figures in the Italian arts scene. Sea views are guaranteed, along with giant beds, slick (and well lit) bathrooms and surprisingly demure interiors in comparison to the rest of the villa’s main spaces. The two-bedroom Romeo e Giulietta Suite is particularly special and is one of the most requested pads in Amalfitana. Immaculately white walls house equally spotless polished tile floors that wind their way up to a vast terrace that reveals 180-degree ocean views, a slither of Positano town and the storied Li Galli islands glowing in the distance. The bath? It has the same panorama, as does the bedroom which when the wind flutters the cream linen curtains that hide it from view, make for a visually cinematic masterpiece of a moment. 

As for Italian bites, you eat what you want, when you want. Flexibility is the Villa Treville way, so you’ll thankfully never go hungry here. Maestro is the signature restaurant where the fine dining menu is enshrined in Campanian seasonal traditions: fresh fish, pizza, pasta, and every other carb under the sun. Virtually all the greens you eat come from the villa’s garden, and all the ingredients are harvested locally served al fresco or at dinner, candlelit tables and twinkling views of the coast included. Tip: head for Bianca Bar for a sundowner pre dinner. Sunsets here are spectacular and super romantic, especially when viewed from the Missoni pillow littered couch. Breakfast? Surprisingly sparse and restrained in comparison to the other addresses that neighbour it. Think continental – bread, jams, the odd bit of cheese and fresh fruits – and a grand selection of juices, nuts and seeds. 

When it comes to escaping, Villa Treville has its own fleet of boats that whizz you along the coast or into Positano for a spot of shopping and exploring. For escapades without the hellish Posi crowds, expert guides for hiking among vineyards, crumbling churches and mountain top farmhouses in the more secluded parts of the Amalfi Coast can be arranged via the concierge on request. Do like I did though and don’t bother leaving. The truth, it’s hard to get a room here, and when you walk along the terraced balconies that spy the sea, you get a real feel for just how damn special this place really is. 

That said, Villa Treville is a rarebie. It’s storied, magnificently positioned and has so much historical cinematic spunk to its name, it should be considered more of a monument than a classy seasonal summer vacation retreat. Yes, this place is a one hit wonder in the boutique hotel world and will remain so for centuries to come. I very rarely say this, but staying here is more a privilege than it is a necessity. You’ll understand what I mean when you check in and those gates of privacy clang shut for the night. 

Top Takeaways

Location: Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Rating: Five-star

The vibe: A cinematic masterpiece. You’ll feel like you are in one of those dramatic Italian movies of yesteryear. We love it, and you will, too. 

Amenities: Restaurants, Bar, Spa, Boutique, Pool

Our favourite thing about the hotel: The design. It is very rare to find a hotel in these parts that marries Arabesque glitz with Italian glamour at this level. 

What’s nearby? Positano. Need we say more? 

Any personal neighbourhood reccs? A hike along the Path of The Gods. Go early to beat the crowds, or head up just before the sunset to see some of the most spectacular views known to man. 

Rooms: 16

Pricing: From about 781 USD per night.

Closest international airport: Naples or Salerno.

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