Like a city within a city, the Harwood District encompasses 19 city blocks in the heart of Dallas, each inch of it a masterclass in brilliant residential and commercial development. Pocketed between Uptown and Victory Park, the tony district holds a gamut of restaurants, parks, living space—even a museum. But, the incontestable kingpin of the family-owned neighborhood is the extraordinary Kengo Kuma-designed Hôtel Swexan’, Texas’—perhaps planet Earth’s—most glamorously creative boutique stay.
Conceived as a fusion of the founders’ Texan and Swiss heritages, Hôtel Swexan doesn’t hold back. Urbane and refined, it offers stellar service in the manner of Switzerland’s storied hotel culture. At the same time, a clever jewel box awash in distinctive nooks, it pays homage to Dallas’ penchant for the arts and Texas’ fearless pursuit of individual self-expression.
An aficionado of both cultures, I found myself swooning over countless interior details: the family’s art collection, which ranges from German Expressionist pieces to Samurai collectibles; the retro martini bar which summons Parisian chic, the huge bathrooms in every guest room with gobsmacking design surprises (such as tubs with water faucets that fill from above), canopied ceilings throughout, drippy chandeliers, velvety-drapes, mid-century shapes and a speakeasy—to name a few.
But nothing made me fall faster in love with this new hotel than the 24 unique common-area bathrooms, each with its own story to tell, each an odd to celebration and bedazzlement. Note: if you can gain access to Hôtel Swexan’s private club, peek into the men’s restroom, anchored by repurposed french horns transformed into urinals.
Top Takeaways
Location: Dallas, Texas
Rating: Five-star
The vibe: A boutique urban retreat where Dallas’ sybarites gather.
Food + Drink: With various gastronomic concepts, Hôtel Swexan makes never leaving the hotel during your stay a distinct and desirable possibility. Isabelle’s, on the lobby level, with its cozy French cafe spirit, serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and the best martinis imaginable to toast the day. One floor below, Babou’s (inspired by Salvador Dali) and The Library at Babou’s strike a festive, hidden-from-the-hubbub tone. Swill cocktails here and take in live entertainment. On the seventh floor, Stillwell’s embodies the western romance of an old-school Texas steakhouse, serving up—among other carnivore-pleasing delights—beef from the Harwood family’s own ranch. On the 20th floor, graceful Léonie summons thoughts of a picnic in the treetops. With expansive views of Dallas, it’s the place for your morning cappuccino or dinner beneath the stars. Pomelo, the pool’s eatery, nourishes guests with a casual light menu and libations galore.
Our Favorite Part of the Hotel: There’s a wonderful contrast between the exterior’s Kuma minimalist sleekness and the interior’s maximalist grandeur and playfulness. One walks into an eye-catching vertical tube (albeit edged with subtle poetic details—such as ceiling flaps in the porte cochere reminiscent of Buddhist peace flags) to discover a jewel box world of tiny surprises at every turn. Everything is meant to bring a smile, quicken the heart, or inspire a spark of inner creativity or awe. Homogeneity, not to mention mediocrity, doesn’t exist at Hôtel Swexan. Eight unique suites, many kitted out with the family’s own artifacts from trips taken around the world or personal art pieces, add to the allure You’ll want to book for a long-term stay.
Amenities: On the 20th floor, the Moroccan-inspired pool glimmers above the skyscrapers of Dallas. An immense state-of-the-art fitness center, purveyor of myriad fitness classes, including Pilates and yoga, awaits, as does the opportunity for an in-room massage. A short walk from the front door, the Joanna Czech Spa pampers guests with various modalities. Take advantage of Hôtel Swexan’s complimentary personal shopping foray, created in collaboration with Highland Park Village. The shoppers can select options and have them delivered to their hotel room. Alternatively, ride in the hotel’s complimentary car for in-store shopping or to enjoy the village’s personal shopping suite.
What’s Nearby? The swanky Highland Park neighborhood, rife with shopping venues, restaurants, and galleries, lies less than five miles away. For art buffs, the hotel’s location allows easy access to some of the city’s most renowned museums. Try the Nasher Sculpture Center or the Dallas Museum of Art.
Any personal neighborhood recs? Consider perusing the Harwood District’s bounty, especially the exquisite Ann and Gabriel Barbier-Mueller Museum, also known as The Samurai Collection, situated steps from the hotel.
Rooms: 134
Pricing: Rates start at $550/night.
Closest Airport: Dallas Fort Worth International Airport (DFW)
